Managua is confusing at first. Not because it is difficult, but because it runs on rules nobody explains and everyone here takes for granted. This post is what we wish someone had told us on day one.
Addresses have no streets
This is the first and the strangest one. In Managua, addresses don't use street names or house numbers. They are given by landmarks: you take a known point and explain how to get there from it.
Our house's address, for example, is this:
Villa Fontana, del Club Terraza 10 vrs al Norte, casa N.º 32.
Which means: find Club Terraza, walk twenty varas north, and there is house 32, right across from the bakery. A vara is an old unit of measure, a bit under a metre, so twenty varas is about seventeen metres. In practice nobody measures: it just means "around the corner."
There is an even more local version of the cardinal directions that you'll hear often:
- "Al lago" ("toward the lake") means north, because Lake Xolotlán sits north of the city.
- "Al sur" ("south") is south, toward the highway to Masaya.
- "Arriba" ("up") is east, where the sun rises.
- "Abajo" ("down") is west, where it sets.
And yes: many landmarks refer to places that no longer exist. "Where the mango tree used to be," "where the cinema used to stand." The city still orients itself by the memory of what was there before the earthquake. It is deeply strange, and completely normal here.
The practical takeaway: save the full address written on your phone and show it to the taxi driver. Don't try to translate it into coordinates.
Taxis have no meters
The price is agreed before getting in. You tell the driver where you're going, they tell you how much, and from there you negotiate or look for another one. Once the car has started moving without a price agreed, you've already lost the negotiation.
Also, regular taxis are shared: the driver may pick up other people heading the same way. That is normal and doesn't mean anything odd. If you'd rather ride alone, ask for an "expreso" taxi and say you want a direct trip — it costs more.
At night, or on your first day, the safest option is to have a trusted taxi called for you rather than hailing one on the street. We do this for our guests without any trouble — just ask us.
Córdobas, dollars and cash
The currency is the córdoba (C$). Dollars are accepted in many places, but with two catches: change is almost always given in córdobas, and bills need to be in good condition — a torn or very worn dollar may be refused.
Where cards work: malls, supermarkets, large restaurants, hotels. Where they don't: markets, street food stalls, buses, taxis, neighbourhood corner stores. Always carry some cash in córdobas, in small bills.
There are ATMs at Galerías Santo Domingo, a few blocks from us.
The heat has a schedule
Managua sits at low elevation and it is hot year-round: 26 to 30 °C on average, with no cold season. What changes isn't the temperature but the rain.
The city organises itself around that. The stretch from eleven in the morning to three in the afternoon is tough for walking around in the sun. Locals plan outings early, head indoors at midday, and come back out once the sun drops. Copy that routine and your trip will be far more pleasant.
From May to October it rains, but in a specific way: heavy mid-afternoon downpours that last an hour or two and then stop. It doesn't rain all day. Planning outings for the morning won't ruin anything.
Don't look for "downtown"
Managua has no old town where everything is concentrated. The 1972 earthquake destroyed the centre and the city rebuilt itself spread out, in separate zones. What is called "the historic centre" is a set of esplanades with the ruined Old Cathedral, the National Palace and Plaza de la Revolución, and it is a couple-hour visit, not an area to stay in.
Life is spread around: the highway to Masaya for restaurants and offices, Galerías and Metrocentro for shopping, the boardwalk for strolling, residential neighbourhoods like Villa Fontana for living. If you're expecting a walkable colonial centre, that's in Granada or León, an hour away.
People speak with "vos"
In Nicaragua people use "vos," not "tú." You'll hear "¿de dónde venís?", "tomá", "mirá", "dejame ver." You don't need to do anything special — if you speak with "tú" people will understand you perfectly. But if you wonder why it sounds different from other countries, that's why.
A few words that will help on day one: pulpería is the small neighbourhood corner store; fritanga is the grilled-food stall that opens at night; chele is someone with light skin, and it is not an insult; tuani means something is good.
Before you board the plane
- A tourist card is charged on entry, around ten dollars. Have the cash ready.
- Some nationalities need to fill in an online immigration form several days ahead. Requirements change — check yours with the Nicaraguan consulate before travelling, not the day before.
- Power is 110 volts with flat two-prong plugs, same as the US. If you're coming from Europe or South America, bring an adapter.
- For drinking water, bottled or purified.